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How Claudia Smolka Built an Award-Winning Organic Dairy from Scratch

One woman’s relentless passion turned seven goats into a prized organic dairy. But her fight to save family farms is far from over. Her artisanal cheese now wins awards, yet most smallholders face extinction.

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2 min read
In this image there is a wooden table. On the table there are olives and fruits in the bowls....
In this image there is a wooden table. On the table there are olives and fruits in the bowls. Beside the bowls there are boards with text. In the background there is a wall. Near to the wall there are serving spoons. In the top left there are bottles. There are labels on the bottles. There is text on the labels.

How Claudia Smolka Built an Award-Winning Organic Dairy from Scratch

Claudia Smolka turned a small herd of goats into an award-winning organic dairy in Hesse. Fifteen years ago, she started with just seven animals and a stall at the local market. Today, her farm stands as a rare success in an industry dominated by large-scale operations.

Smolka, an agricultural scientist, launched her goat cheese business in 2010. She and her partner rented a house in Seelbach, converting it into a dairy while selling their products at Giessen’s weekly market. The early years were precarious—when the landlord reclaimed the property, they faced the challenge of securing a permanent base.

Over time, the farm expanded to include around 50 dairy goats, cattle, pigs, and several hectares of land. Smolka’s raw-milk cheese, cultured with a unique whey-based starter, gained recognition for its distinct flavour. Her artisanal methods, rooted in tradition, earned multiple awards and set her apart from industrial producers.

Yet the broader farming landscape tells a different story. Agricultural restructuring has pushed out family-run farms, with large enterprises absorbing land and resources. Smolka’s own experience reflects the struggle: high land prices and competition from industrial agriculture make it difficult for smallholders to survive. Even ecological practices like mulch farming and agroforestry receive little support, despite their benefits.

Political inaction has worsened the problem. When an Australian investor acquired Deutsche Agrar Holding—snapping up 20,000 hectares of farmland—the federal government did not step in. Smolka, now chair of the Arbeitsgemeinschaft bäuerliche Landwirtschaft (AbL) Hesse, advocates for stronger policies. She pushes for fair land access, stable markets, and backing for sustainable, small-scale farming.

Smolka’s farm thrives because of her skill and dedication, but many smallholders lack the same opportunities. Without better land policies and support for artisanal methods, Germany’s family farms will continue to disappear. Her work with AbL Hesse keeps the issue in the spotlight, pressing for changes that could secure a future for farms like hers.

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